James Beard Foundation Examines Food and Health

Health & Food: Is Better Food the Prescription for a Healthier America? – a two-day conference hosted by the James Beard Foundation (JBF), showcased the good food movement’s effect on the culinary world. JBF, a revered culinary arts institution, brought some of the biggest names in food advocacy before an audience of advocates, entrepreneurs, civil society leaders, industry reps, producers and, yes, chefs.

JBF put together an all-star line up to stimulate dialogue on the health impacts of the modern American diet. Ezekiel Emanuel, former senior health policy advisor on health care for the White House, gave the keynote. His speech was followed later by Laurie David, executive producer of "Fed Up," and Marion Nestle, food politics author and professor at New York University. On day two, the crowd heard from Sam Kass, President Barack Obama's senior policy advisor for nutrition policy, and author Michael Pollan. Yet, it was the lesser-known voices that stole the show.

The “carefully curated” speaker schedule wove narrative through an ambitious scientific and political agenda. While the morning was dedicated to the complex impacts of often well-masked sweeteners in our food and drink, community activists took center stage in the afternoon. The Bigger Picture Campaign introduced young slam poets who electrified the room, using video to drive home a clear message: access to healthful food is a justice issue. Vividly capturing tensions between hunger and satisfaction, in the context of violence and addiction, artist Joshua Merchant underscored the painful truth; the choice to eat healthfully is a luxury not everyone can afford. In an emotional plea, Navina Kahnna pushed for community leadership that extends beyond community engagement -- and fosters community ownership of food access points.

Ben Burkett, president of the National Family Farmers Coalition, bridged the urban-rural gap when discussing communities bowed down by diabetes and the obesity epidemic. Burkett led with commentary on the dismal health indicators characteristic of his home state of Mississippi. As he gently poked fun at the audience and the increasingly fickle demands of Northeast consumers (seedless watermelon ... really?). He spoke plainly of narrow farm margins and broadened the food equity conversation to include producers.

The juxtaposition of speakers revealed the naivety of the expression “farm to fork.” In her remarks, Toni Griffin, founder of Urban Planning and Design for the American City, recognized the cultural and institutional history that shapes our nation’s food system. There was not much time for grappling with such complexity though, as Mark Bittman was posed a series of dualistic choices: Organic or local? GMO or antiobiotic free? Chocolate or vanilla? In doing so, Mitchell Davis, the executive vice president of JBF, exposed one of the food movement’s greatest challenges: communicating nuanced scientific and political issues to catalyze action.

Check back for more conference coverage and a look at how JBF, food business entrepreneurs, and funders are getting involved to improve dietary health. In the meantime, if you're curious about the healthfulness of your food choices, play around with the Environmental Working Group's new guide, Food Scores.